Knowledge Center

Professional Authentication Platform

Log InRegister

Bezel

Première octagonal bezel

Probable

The Première's octagonal bezel, whose facet widths and proportion to the case rectangle are drawn from the stopper of the No. 5 bottle, itself drawn from the Place Vendôme. A specific octagon rather than a generic one.

Part reference

Brand
Chanel
Material
Steel, gold-plated and gold executions
Introduced
1987

Documented variations

Classification

FactoryDocumented as shipped from the factory for this reference and period.PeriodNot original to this watch, but correct for its production period.ServiceFitted by the manufacturer's own service network. Not a defect.AftermarketThird-party part. Affects originality, not authenticity.ModifiedGenuine parts in a configuration the factory did not sell. Affects originality and value, not authenticity.CounterfeitDeceptive reproduction intended to pass as genuine.UnknownEvidence on file does not settle the question.

  • Correct facet proportions

    FactoryProbable

    Whole production

    Facet widths and the octagon-to-case ratio matching documented examples. The facets are not uniform, and their non-uniformity is part of the design.

  • Generic octagon with even facets

    CounterfeitProbable

    Whole production

    The characteristic counterfeit error: an eight-sided bezel whose facets have been regularised. Measure against a documented example — as with the Hermès geometries, the proportion is the identity and it is the part a copyist normalises without noticing.

Documented on these references

Provenance of this record

Sources & Evidence

Secondary sourceCollector research

Research on J12 counterfeits and the 2019 redesign differences

Authentication services, dealers and collector communities

Accessed
2026-08-19

Cited for

This referenceProbable

Last verified: Not yet reviewed