Open research
What this catalog does not yet know, tracked as data. A knowledge base that shows only its answers reads as complete; one that shows its questions can be trusted.
Catalog coverage
1,182 reference records in total.
273
Documented
23% of catalog
194
Partial
16% of catalog
715
Placeholder
60% of catalog
833
Awaiting research
70% of catalog
Research libraries
Research coverage by brand
How much of each brand's catalogue is documented, cited and reviewed. Placeholders are references the catalogue knows exist and nothing more.
| Brand | References | Documented | With citations | Approved claims | Disputed | Open gaps |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rolex | 138 | 99(72%) | 3 | 0 | 0 | 6 |
| Seiko | 121 | 23(19%) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 6 |
| Cartier | 73 | 4(5%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 4 |
| Tudor | 64 | 11(17%) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 3 |
| Patek Philippe | 57 | 12(21%) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 2 |
| TSIKOLIA | 56 | 44(79%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 4 |
| Omega | 55 | 19(35%) | 2 | 0 | 0 | 5 |
| Audemars Piguet | 41 | 10(24%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 3 |
| IWC | 37 | 4(11%) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 3 |
| Breitling | 33 | 4(12%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
| Jaeger-LeCoultre | 20 | 0(0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
| A. Lange & Söhne | 19 | 4(21%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 1 |
| TAG Heuer | 19 | 3(16%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 2 |
| NOMOS | 18 | 0(0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
| Casio | 17 | 0(0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
| Citizen | 17 | 0(0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
| Panerai | 16 | 1(6%) | 1 | 0 | 0 | 2 |
| Bulgari | 15 | 0(0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
| Sinn | 15 | 0(0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
| Blancpain | 14 | 0(0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
| Breguet | 14 | 0(0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
| Grand Seiko | 14 | 0(0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
| Longines | 14 | 0(0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
| Oris | 14 | 0(0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
| Vacheron Constantin | 14 | 0(0%) | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
Open questions
154 open, 6 closed or unresolvable.
Reference catalog is majority placeholder records
Which of the catalog's reference records are stubs carrying a reference number and nothing substantive, and in what order should they be researched?
Best current answer
Roughly two-thirds of reference records are flagged `needsResearch` with placeholder data confidence. They are labelled as such in the Knowledge Center rather than presented as researched entries, and the counts are visible on the research dashboard.
Conflicting claims
Not a conflict. Recorded as a tracked gap so that catalog breadth is never mistaken for catalog depth — an inflated record count is precisely the metric this system should not optimise.
Complete list of catalogued factory Spaceview models
Which Bulova Accutron models were catalogued from the factory as Spaceviews, in which years, and in which case executions?
Best current answer
Two findings. CHRONOLOGY: Spaceviews began as dealer display pieces; Bulova responded to customer demand with factory versions, initially solid gold and a few stainless steel, the first steel examples arriving at the end of 1962 and selling strongly through 1963, with gold-filled chapter-ring models following until the whole skeletonised group carried the name. PHYSICAL TEST, and the more useful of the two: modern reproduction crystals bearing Accutron markings are made in sizes that fit NON-Spaceview 214 cases — sizes Bulova never offered as Spaceviews. A period conversion could not have used one because it did not exist. So a Spaceview-marked crystal in such a size identifies a modern conversion dimensionally, which survives a conversion good enough to defeat visual inspection under a loupe. Specialist references: spaceview.ca, accutron214.com and the myBulova model database.
Scope Still the most actionable gap on the brand, but the framing has improved: research turned up a PHYSICAL test that does not depend on having the model list at all, which is a better instrument than the documentary lookup originally sought. The list itself remains worth assembling from the collector databases' scanned period catalogues, since it would confirm a Spaceview positively where the crystal test can only expose a modern conversion.
Caliber map for the pre-2019 J12
Which bought-in Swiss automatic and quartz calibers did Chanel fit to the first-generation J12, and to which references and years?
Best current answer
The automatic first-generation J12 uses the ETA 2892-A2, confirmed by auction lot descriptions and by specialist coverage of the 2019 changeover, which contrasts the new Kenissi caliber against 'a conventional ETA movement, procured from the Swatch Group'. So a 2892-A2 in a pre-2019 automatic J12 is CORRECT and is not a substitution. Quartz calibers for the same period are not established here.
Scope PARTIALLY ANSWERED for the automatics, which are the ones that matter most because they carry the value. Still open for the quartz executions, which are numerous and poorly documented, and for the year-by-year reference mapping. Chanel's own site holds only current production, so the remainder is an auction-and-dealer-record exercise.
Complete list of Frederique Constant manufacture calibers
Which FC caliber families are manufacture movements and which are modified Sellita or ETA bases, across current and recent production?
Best current answer
Frederique Constant states around thirty manufacture calibers. Identified members: FC-705 moonphase, FC-710 (the base automatic), FC-718 worldtimer, FC-760 flyback chronograph, FC-775 perpetual calendar, FC-810 Monolithic, and FC-975 tourbillon perpetual calendar. The FC-810 is a modified FC-710 with a completely reworked regulation system. An FC-prefixed caliber number in the ranges above indicates manufacture production; the bought-in movements are not designated this way.
Scope The MANUFACTURE side is now largely answered — the family is identified and its members named. What remains open is the other half of the question and the one that actually catches misdescription: which references carry bought-in Sellita or ETA movements, which Frederique Constant does not enumerate as clearly as it does its manufacture calibers. A reference-to-caliber table is the remaining work.
Model-by-model satellite arrangements and additional mechanisms
Across the UR series, which satellite arrangement does each model use, and which carry retrograde minutes, turbine-regulated winding, winding-efficiency indication or other additional mechanisms?
Best current answer
UR-105: a skeletonised carousel carrying FOUR hour satellites, with retrograde minute, small seconds and power-reserve indications, on the Calibre UR 5.03 whose self-winding is regulated by two turbines. UR-210: satellite wandering hours with a three-dimensional retrograde minute hand sweeping an arched track, a power-reserve indication, and a PATENTED winding-efficiency indicator. The UR-210's retrograde mechanism rests on three named elements — a central axis in ruby bearings, a cylindrical marine-chronometer-type spring running vertically around it to tension the flyback, and a double coaxial star-shaped cam regulating the return. Both the turbine regulation and the efficiency indication are Urwerk-specific and are the mechanisms an examiner should expect to see behaving, not merely present.
Scope PARTIALLY ANSWERED for the two models the catalog holds; still open across the wider UR series. The remainder is a collection exercise against Urwerk's own published press documentation, which is unusually detailed — the UR-210 press material describes the retrograde mechanism component by component — rather than an archival one.
Which Rado references use which specific ceramic or composite
Across current and recent production, which references use high-tech ceramic, plasma high-tech ceramic, Ceramos, hardmetal or coated steel, and how do the properties of each differ in ways an examiner can observe?
Best current answer
Four distinct families, not four names for one thing. HIGH-TECH CERAMIC: sintered, non-metallic, coloured through — all standard tests apply. PLASMA HIGH-TECH CERAMIC: the same ceramic carbon-enriched in a plasma process, giving a metallic lustre WITHOUT being metal; it looks like brushed metal and stays cold, which is the single most misleading combination in Rado's range and the one most likely to produce a false finding. CERAMOS: a cermet, about 90 per cent titanium carbide with a metallic binder — a development of hardmetal, lighter than it, with better scratch resistance; because it genuinely contains metal the thermal test is weaker and weight is the better discriminator. HARDMETAL: tungsten carbide in a metal binder, roughly twice the density of steel, where the weight test is most decisive.
Scope Split in two by research, and the more important half is now answered. WHAT THE MATERIALS ARE and how they differ is established and recorded as its own component record, including the two exceptions that qualify the catalog's own tests. WHICH REFERENCE USES WHICH remains open — Rado publishes material fact sheets but not a reference-by-reference assignment — so an examiner still has to establish the material from the reference before choosing a test.
Which Hermès references carry mechanical versus quartz movements
Across the Cape Cod, Heure H and Arceau lines, which references are quartz and which mechanical, and when did each transition?
Best current answer
CAPE COD: size determines movement. The TGM (très grand modèle) is the mechanical one, carrying the Vaucher-built H1912 — 28 jewels, 28,800 vph, 50-hour reserve — and every smaller size is quartz. Better still, the two are distinguishable without knowing the reference: the MECHANICAL models have a stamped pattern in the dial centre and the DATE AT 6 O'CLOCK, while the QUARTZ models have a radial brushed dial and the DATE AT 3. So the date-window position identifies the movement type from any clear photograph, which makes a quartz-in-a-mechanical-reference claim checkable at a glance. Vaucher has also built Cape Cod moonphase, eight-day jump-hour and tourbillon movements. Heure H and Arceau remain unmapped.
Scope Answered for the Cape Cod, and the answer came with something better than a reference list: a VISUAL tell that works from a photograph. Still open for the Heure H and Arceau lines, where the quartz-versus-mechanical split is not established here.
Reference-level split between Le Locle and Villeret production
Which Montblanc references are built at Villeret with Minerva calibers and which at Le Locle with outside movements, across current and recent production?
Best current answer
The M is the marker. VILLERET Minerva calibers carry an M in the designation — MB M16.29, MB M13.21, MB M16.26 — while LE LOCLE calibers do not: MB 24.17 is a rebadged Sellita SW200-1 at 28,800 vph, 26 jewels and a 38-hour reserve. So 'MB M-something' indicates the hand-finished Villeret production and 'MB number' indicates the volume production on an outside base. That is checkable from a specification sheet or a listing, before the watch is in hand, which is exactly what the gap needed. Treat as probable rather than certain: it is a pattern observed across the published calibers rather than a convention Montblanc documents.
Scope Substantially answered, and by a better route than the reference table this gap asked for: the CALIBER DESIGNATION itself appears to encode the split, which means an examiner can tell from a specification sheet without needing a lookup. Recorded as an observed regularity rather than a published scheme — Montblanc does not state the convention explicitly — so it wants confirming against a wider sample before being relied on absolutely. The reference-by-reference table remains the belt-and-braces version.
Machine-by-machine caliber and collaborator record
For each Horological Machine and Legacy Machine, which constructors and finishers built the movement, what is its specification, and what was the edition size?
Best current answer
LM1 and LM2: movements developed by Jean-François Mojon, with Kari Voutilainen responsible for the nineteenth-century-style hand finishing. LM101: developed and assembled in-house, with Voutilainen consulting on movement design and finishing specification — the first Legacy Machine built in-house rather than by an outside constructor, which makes it a meaningful line in the brand's development. LM Perpetual: the fully integrated perpetual calendar developed for MB&F by Stephen McDonnell, dial-side, using a 'mechanical processor' architecture with built-in safety mechanisms in place of the conventional grande date-style calendar works; it took the Best Calendar Watch prize at the 2016 GPHG. An examiner can therefore check a stated construction against a named individual, and a Legacy Machine attributed to the wrong constructor is a documentary finding.
Scope The Legacy Machine attributions are now established and confirm the premise this bundle rests on: the constructors are named, publicly, and can be checked. Still open across the Horological Machines, and for edition sizes generally. The remainder is a collection exercise against MB&F's own machine pages and launch material rather than an archival one — the information is published by design, which is the whole point of recording it as evidence.
Rotation periods and inclination angles across the Greubel Forsey inventions
For each invention, what are the carriage rotation periods and inclination angles, and how do they differ between references?
Best current answer
Double Tourbillon 30°: inner carriage inclined 30°, rotating once every 60 seconds, inside an outer carriage rotating once every 4 minutes; 120-hour power reserve. Tourbillon 24 Secondes: single carriage inclined 25°, rotating once every 24 seconds, at 21,600 vph with a 90-hour reserve from three coaxial barrels; the cage is 86 components in low-density aerospace alloys weighing 0.38g. Both figures are stated by the manufacturer as chronometrically derived rather than stylistic, and both are directly timeable against the watch.
Scope Directly enables the strongest check available on the brand. PARTIALLY ANSWERED for the two inventions the catalog holds; still open for the Quadruple Tourbillon, the Tourbillon Cardan, the GMT and the Différentiel d'Égalité, where an examiner would know to time the carriage without knowing what figure to expect. Greubel Forsey publishes these as exact specifications per invention, so the remainder is a collection exercise against the manufacturer's own history pages rather than an archival one.
Catalogue of Raymond Weil limited editions and their sizes
Which limited and licensed editions has Raymond Weil issued, in what sizes, in which years, and with which references?
Best current answer
Documented sizes: The Beatles — 3,000 pieces, and the Abbey Road edition likewise 3,000. Bob Marley Tango GMT — 1,500 pieces worldwide. David Bowie Freelancer — 3,000 pieces, numbered. So a Beatles or Bowie edition numbered above 3,000, or a Marley above 1,500, is conclusively wrong. Because the runs are in the thousands, the converse carries almost no weight: a plausible number confirms very little, and the licensed artwork, the documentation and the reference itself have to do the rest of the work.
Scope Now operational rather than theoretical: enough documented sizes are recorded to run the arithmetic check on the best-known editions, which is what this gap existed to enable. The full catalogue across every edition and year remains to be assembled — Raymond Weil maintains a partnerships page listing its music editions, so this is collection rather than discovery. Note the practical consequence of the sizes found: these are editions of THOUSANDS, not dozens, so a number inside the range is very weak confirmation and only a number outside it is decisive. That asymmetry is worth keeping in view.
Arnold & Son caliber specifications and La Joux-Perret bases
What are the specifications of the A&S calibers, and which are designed for Arnold & Son as against being La Joux-Perret movements shared with other brands?
Best current answer
Arnold & Son states that its calibers are designed and developed in-house and produced by its sister manufacture La Joux-Perret at La Chaux-de-Fonds — both within the Citizen group. That is a different arrangement from buying stock movements, and it means exclusivity rather than mere assembly. Specification confirmed for one: the A&S1001 is 30mm across and 2.70mm thick, 21 jewels, 21,600 vph, with a 90-hour power reserve. The DSTB is confirmed as a deadbeat seconds displayed on the dial side, and the HM Perpetual Moon as one of the largest moonphase displays in watchmaking — the catalog's deliberate refusal to quote a specific accuracy figure for it still stands, since none was found.
Scope The relationship question — the more consequential half — is answered, and it is more favourable to the brand than the gap assumed. The calibers are DESIGNED AND DEVELOPED by Arnold & Son and PRODUCED by La Joux-Perret as a sister manufacture, rather than being shared LJP movements rebadged. So an unfamiliar A&S caliber should be exclusive rather than generic, and finding a stock La Joux-Perret movement in an Arnold & Son case would be a finding. Individual specifications remain to be collected; Arnold & Son publishes a calibres index, so this is gathering rather than discovery.
Precise boundary of the Polarouter to Polerouter transition
Exactly when in 1955 did the dial spelling change, were there transitional watches carrying one spelling with the other generation's caliber as factory production, and how many first-series watches were made?
Best current answer
The Polarouter name lasted only a few months; Polarouter-marked watches were produced across 1954 and 1955, all on the bumper caliber 138SS. Critically, the first watches to carry the new POLEROUTER name CONTINUED to use the bumper 138SS — the name changed before the movement did, so the two transitions are sequential rather than simultaneous. The usable rule is therefore asymmetric: Polarouter implies bumper, but Polerouter does not imply micro-rotor. Exact transition month and production quantities remain unestablished; a dedicated Polerouter reference site exists and is the most likely route to both.
Scope This gap did its job: it found an error in the catalog's own rule. The transitional watches exist and run the OPPOSITE way to the one anticipated — the concern recorded here was a Polarouter dial over a micro-rotor, and what actually exists is a Polerouter dial over a bumper. The rule has been corrected to a one-directional one throughout the bundle. Remaining: the exact month of the name change and first-series production quantities, neither of which is established, and the second of which may not survive anywhere given the absent archive.
Which references carry the natural escapement
Across current and past production, which Laurent Ferrier references use the double direct-impulse natural escapement and which use a conventional Swiss lever?
Best current answer
The LF229 micro-rotor platform is described as carrying the brand's own take on the natural escapement, alongside its 3 Hz balance — so the escapement is not confined to the tourbillon references as this catalog first implied. Treat it as expected across the range pending a reference-by-reference confirmation, and treat its absence as a question rather than yet as a verdict.
Scope Materially advanced, and it broadens rather than narrows the check. The catalog had associated the natural escapement with the tourbillon; it appears on the MICRO-ROTOR platform as well, which means the escapement is a brand-wide signature rather than a single reference's feature. That makes its absence a stronger finding than previously recorded — but the exact set of references still needs establishing before absence can be treated as decisive.
De Bethune caliber designations and their reference assignments
Which numbered De Bethune calibers exist, what are their specifications, and which references carry which?
Best current answer
Published De Bethune calibers include DB2005, DB2105, DB2109, DB2324, DB2507, DB2509 and DB2547. The DB2005 is documented in full: manual winding, 160 parts, 27 jewels, 30mm, 28,800 vph, six-day reserve from a self-regulating twin barrel, with a titanium balance carrying white gold inserts, a silicon escape wheel and a patented flat-terminal-curve balance spring. Which caliber belongs in which reference is not yet mapped, but De Bethune's own historical catalogue is the obvious source and it is public.
Scope Advanced, and it caught a fabrication in the catalog's own record: an earlier revision named a 'DB2115 family' that does not appear in De Bethune's published caliber list, and it has been replaced with the DB2005, whose specification is documented. The reference-to-caliber assignment remains open — but the route is easier than assumed, because De Bethune publishes a historical catalogue of its own past timepieces, which is an archive of exactly the kind most brands in this expansion lack.
Bulova American-era movement caliber designations
How should Bulova's alphanumeric movement markings be read, and which calibers correspond to which production periods and models?
Best current answer
The leading NUMBER is the movement size in lignes — a 10-series is 10.5 lignes, an 11-series is 11. From the THIRD character onward each letter denotes a function: A automatic, B day-date, C sweep seconds, D calendar/date, F or L no seconds hand, H hacking, R alarm, S Glucydur balance, U jump hour. So 10BPAC reads as a 10.5-ligne automatic with sweep seconds (used 1955-58), and 11ANACB as an 11-ligne automatic with calendar and day-date. Jewel count is separate and must be read from its own marking. Ranfft's caliber database and the Bulova collector databases both carry per-caliber detail.
Scope The DECODE is answered and recorded as a marking, and it turned out to be more useful than the dating cross-check this gap was originally after: because the letters encode FUNCTIONS, the movement marking can be checked against the dial and hands rather than only against the caseback date. A code promising sweep seconds above a sub-seconds dial is an inconsistency an assembled watch fails. What remains open is the caliber-to-model and caliber-to-period mapping, which is a larger collection exercise against the Bulova databases. Note one correction to this gap's own premise: the jewel count is NOT encoded in the caliber code, contrary to what it assumed.
Which references carry silicon escapement components
Across the manufacture calibers, which use silicon escape wheels or hairsprings, and from which production year?
Best current answer
The FC-810 Monolithic is the significant silicon caliber: a single monocrystalline silicon oscillator replacing 26 conventional balance components, running at 40 Hz. Its observable signature — a seconds hand that glides rather than steps — is the check, not the presence of silicon as such. Use of silicon in the other manufacture calibers is not established here.
Scope The headline case is answered and turned out to be far more consequential than 'a silicon escape wheel': the FC-810 Monolithic replaces the entire regulating organ with silicon and is now recorded as its own movement. Whether the other manufacture calibers use silicon in smaller ways is the residual question, and it is a minor one by comparison — a silicon escape wheel changes nothing an examiner can observe, whereas the Monolithic changes how the watch visibly runs.
Laurent Ferrier caliber designations and specifications
What are the numbered caliber designations across the Laurent Ferrier range, and what are their specifications and production periods?
Best current answer
The micro-rotor base caliber is the FBN 229 (also written LF229), self-winding with a unidirectional pawl-fitted micro-rotor, a 3 Hz balance and a three-day power reserve. Combined with the Traveller dual-time complication it is designated LF230. The designation convention is therefore meaningful rather than arbitrary: a base caliber number plus a complication yields a new number, so an LF230 implies an LF229 underneath it.
Scope The micro-rotor platform is now identified along with its complication derivative, which covers the bulk of the range. The tourbillon calibers and the full production-period mapping remain open, and are a low-priority collection exercise given that manufacturer confirmation is available at this volume.
Which base calibers underlie the Franck Muller complications
Which base movements does Franck Muller use beneath its complication modules, and which complications are built on in-house architecture?
Best current answer
The ETA 2892 is the recurring base across the accessible range: the Crazy Hours is a 2892 with the jumping-hour works mounted as a complication plate, the Master Banker likewise used a high-grade 2892, and the FM 2800 INV is a 2892 modified to run its hands counterclockwise. Franck Muller's stated practice is to take the ETA base, fit a platinum rotor, upgrade selected components, add its own complication module, engrave its name and assign its own reference. That makes an FM caliber number a designation rather than a claim of origin — the same convention as Hublot's HUB numbers and Hamilton's H-series. The bases for the high complications are not established here.
Scope The house PATTERN is established, which is the part that prevents false findings: an FM caliber number denotes a Franck Muller designation over an outside base, so expecting in-house architecture behind one is the error to avoid. What remains open is the specific base beneath the grander complications — the tourbillons, repeaters and the Aeternitas — where an ETA 2892 plainly cannot be the answer and the catalog asserts nothing.
Rolex end-link codes lack any primary documentation
Can the Rolex end-link code tables in circulation be corroborated against a manufacturer parts catalogue or service document?
Best current answer
No. Every end-link code table located is community- or dealer-compiled. The codes themselves are stamped on genuine parts and are not in doubt; the reference-to-code mappings are reconstructed from observed watches.
Conflicting claims
Community tables broadly agree but differ on suffixed variants such as 580 versus 580B, and none cites a source. The catalog records these components at `unverified` and `probable` accordingly rather than at the confidence their ubiquity would suggest.
Scope Affects every end-link component record and the fitments resting on them.
Component photography missing across the library
Which component records can be given reference photography of genuine examples, so that visual comparison is possible rather than described?
Best current answer
None currently. Every component and variation record in the library is text-only.
Conflicting claims
Not a conflict but a limitation, and a material one: several indicators recorded here — end-link stamping, clasp codes, bezel print variations, lume tone — are visual and cannot be applied from a written description alone. Sourcing images requires rights-cleared photography of examined examples rather than images scraped from listings.
Scope Applies to the whole component library and to the counterfeit-intelligence records.
Reference-level production spans across the Seiko catalog
Can the production start and end years recorded for vintage Seiko references be established from Seiko catalogues rather than from collector estimates?
Best current answer
Every vintage Seiko production span in this catalog is a collector estimate, recorded at 'partial' data confidence. Period Seiko catalogues would raise them, with the caveat that a catalogue shows what was OFFERED in a season rather than what was manufactured.
Conflicting claims
Published spans differ between specialist sources by a year or more at both ends, and the differences are rarely explained. This is why the serial decoder applies a ±1-year tolerance: most of the slack is absorbing imprecision in these dates rather than in Seiko's production.
Scope Affects every serial-dating conclusion, since the reference's production window is the constraint that eliminates candidate decades.
Speedmaster 145.022 dial supply and printing variations
Which dial suppliers produced the 145.022 dials, and can the documented printing variations be tied to supplier or to production period rather than only ordered relative to one another?
Scope The 145.022 is among the most heavily traded vintage Omega references and among the most frequently assembled from parts. Dial variations are described in collector literature in relative order; tying them to dates or suppliers is what would turn description into a check.
Serial-number to production-year mapping for vintage Tudor
Can Tudor case serial ranges be tied to production years with better precision than the current collector estimates, and what evidence base would establish it?
Best current answer
The sequence orders watches reliably. Absolute dating rests on watches with dated papers or issue records, and its accuracy varies by decade with no way to state the error bar.
Conflicting claims
Published estimate tables differ from one another by several years in some ranges, and none states its evidence base.
Scope Affects the dating of every vintage Tudor in the catalog. The catalog currently seeds no serial ranges at all, which is deliberate: publishing an estimated band would present an interpolation as a lookup.
Dating the Snowflake dial generations
Can the printing and marker variations within the Snowflake dial be tied to production periods, rather than only ordered relative to one another?
Best current answer
Collector research agrees on the relative ordering of the generations. The catalog records the ordering and asserts no years.
Scope The dial carries most of the authentication weight on a vintage Tudor Submariner, because the case and bracelet are Rolex parts that interchange freely. Tying dial generations to dates would turn the strongest available observation into a cross-check against the serial.
Dating the Co-Axial 2500 revisions
When did each internal revision of the caliber 2500 enter production, and can a revision be identified from the movement without reference to Omega's service records?
Best current answer
Collector research distinguishes the revisions by beat rate and escapement detail and orders them A, B, C, D. The letters are collector usage; they are not consistently marked on the movement, and Omega has published no revision-to-date table.
Scope Consequential because early 2500s were revised under service, so a watch may legitimately carry a later revision than it shipped with. Without a revision-to-date mapping the catalog cannot state which revision a reference should carry, and an examiner should describe the movement rather than assert its revision.
Which modern references use a sandwich dial
Which Panerai references are built with a sandwich dial and which use a conventional painted dial?
Scope Consequential in the direction that harms a genuine watch. The sandwich dial is the fastest counterfeit check on the brand, and an examiner who does not know that some references legitimately lack one could report a correct painted dial as a fake. The catalog records the caveat and cannot yet supply the list that would let an examiner act on it.
Whether the secret signature is present across all references and periods
On which Cartier references and from which date is the secret signature actually applied, and are there current or recent references that do not carry one?
Scope Consequential in the direction that produces harm. The catalog records that absence must be checked against what the reference should have before it is treated as a finding — but without a list of which references carry the signature, that check cannot currently be performed, and an examiner could report a genuine unsigned dial as suspect.
Which references Rolex service fitted with later-specification dials
Which references did Rolex's service network supply with dials of a later specification, over what period, and can a service dial be distinguished from an original beyond period inconsistency of lume and text?
Best current answer
That Rolex replaced dials routinely is established from practitioner experience. Which dial went into which reference, and when, is not documented anywhere the catalog can cite.
Scope The highest-consequence gap on the brand in ordinary practice. Service dial replacement is the single most common explanation for a Rolex dial that does not match its reference, it affects value by large multiples, and it is neither an authenticity finding nor an originality-neutral one. The catalog currently describes the classification without being able to supply the reference-by-reference knowledge that would let an examiner apply it confidently.
Distinguishing genuine tropical dials from artificially aged ones
Is there a reproducible method — spectroscopic, microscopic, or by pattern of ageing — for separating a genuinely oxidised black dial from one browned deliberately?
Scope The value multiple on a tropical dial is large enough to fund considerable effort at faking one, and the catalog currently offers heuristics — unevenness, directionality, consistency with the lume and hands — rather than a test. This is a gap where the platform's own evidence-capture apparatus could plausibly contribute, since it concerns photographable surface characteristics.
Caliber transition dates within long-running references
When did each caliber change happen inside references that spanned more than one — the 16710's 3185 to 3186, the 16570's three calibers, the 5512's three, the 1675's 1565 to 1575?
Best current answer
Collector research places the transitions to within a year or two in most cases. None of it cites a Rolex source, and references demonstrably overlapped, so a watch built near a changeover may correctly carry either caliber.
Scope Directly governs how the movement fitments in this bundle are written. Because no transition date can be sourced, every caliber a reference legitimately ran is recorded as factory-correct and only one is marked primary — which is honest but blunt, and means the catalog can say a caliber is possible without saying whether it is expected for a watch of a given serial.
Which Navitimer references were supplied through AOPA, and when
Which Navitimer references carried the AOPA winged dial, over what period, and were AOPA and Breitling-signed dials supplied concurrently within the same reference?
Scope Consequential because the emblem carries a premium and is therefore worth adding to a plain dial. Without a reference-and-period mapping an examiner cannot say whether an AOPA dial belongs on the watch it is in, only whether the printing looks right.
What a Patek extract establishes about parts as opposed to numbers
Does an Extract from the Archives record the original dial, hands and bracelet configuration in enough detail to establish whether the parts currently on a watch are original, or only the caliber, case and movement numbers and sale date?
Scope Consequential because the whole bundle recommends the extract as the strongest available step, so what it does and does not settle should be stated precisely rather than left to be assumed. The distinction matters most on a watch whose dial may have been replaced at service: if the extract records the original dial execution, that is a decisive check on originality; if it does not, the dial remains an open question no document can close.
Which references Patek service fitted with later-execution dials
Which Patek references did the service department supply with dials of a later execution, and can a service dial be distinguished from an original beyond inconsistency of execution with the reference?
Scope Mirrors the equivalent Rolex gap and carries the same consequence. On a Nautilus the dial is a large share of the value, a service dial is a genuine Patek part correctly fitted, and the classification is neither an authenticity finding nor originality-neutral. The catalog describes the distinction without being able to supply the reference-by-reference knowledge that would let an examiner apply it.
Which Caliber 11-family movement belongs in which reference and period
When did the Caliber 12 and 15 enter the references that had carried the Caliber 11, and can a caliber be assigned to a period within references such as the 1153 and 11630?
Scope The movement fitments record every caliber of the family as factory-correct for these references because no transition date can be sourced. That is honest and blunt: the catalog can say a caliber is possible and cannot say whether it is expected for a watch of a given serial.
What IWC's archive will confirm, and for which periods
Which fields does an IWC archive extract carry, does its coverage extend across the whole of the company's production, and will IWC answer an enquiry on a military-issued watch?
Scope The bundle recommends the archive as the strongest step on a questioned vintage IWC, which makes its coverage and limits worth establishing rather than assuming. The military question matters most: if IWC's records show a watch was supplied to the Air Ministry, that would corroborate an issue claim from a direction independent of the engraving itself — which is precisely what these claims otherwise lack.
Authenticating Air Ministry issue markings
Is there a reproducible method for distinguishing service-applied broad-arrow and stores markings from later additions, and do issue records survive that can be consulted?
Scope Mirrors the Tudor military-engraving gap exactly, including the consequence: an exterior engraving worth a large multiple, on an accessible surface, with no manufacturer able to confirm it. The catalog holds the whole class at unverified and offers a procedure rather than a test.
What JLC's heritage department will confirm for an outside enquiry
Does Jaeger-LeCoultre answer archive enquiries against case or movement numbers, which fields does it provide, and over which periods do its records extend?
Scope The highest-value gap on the brand, because it decides whether JLC sits with Omega, Patek and IWC — where an individual watch is checkable — or with Tudor and Breitling, where it is not. The bundle deliberately does not recommend the archive as an examination step until it can state what the step yields, which is a caveat rather than a conclusion.
Doxa dial signature concordance by period
What dial signature did Doxa use in each of its corporate phases — original, Synchron, Aubry Frères and the revived brand — and how do the US Divers co-branded dials fit into that sequence?
Scope The catalog establishes that the signature is the brand's dating evidence and does not yet hold the mapping, which leaves the scheme telling an examiner what to look at without telling them what they should see. Period advertising, catalogues and well-provenanced auction lots would build it.
Distinguishing Soviet military issue from commercially sold military-themed watches
Can a Komandirskie actually supplied to the Soviet Ministry of Defence be distinguished from the commercially sold military-themed watches, and do procurement records survive?
Scope Harder than the equivalent Tudor or IWC question for a reason specific to this brand: the volumes are enormous, the themed dials were sold openly to the public, and Soviet procurement records are not accessible. The catalog holds issue claims at unverified and doubts they can be resolved at the level of an individual watch at all.
Whether a photographic register of balance-cock engravings is feasible
Could photographs of hand-engraved balance cocks be captured systematically and matched, turning the engraving from a per-watch observation into a searchable register?
Scope The most interesting opportunity in this knowledge layer and the one most directly connected to the platform's own evidence-capture apparatus. The engraving is already a unique identifier; what is missing is a captured record to match against. A watch photographed at one authentication could be positively identified at the next — genuine provenance continuity, from a photograph, for a brand where it is otherwise unavailable.
Full mapping of the Hublot material codes
What is the complete set of two-letter material codes used in the second field of a Hublot reference, and does the mapping hold across collections and generations?
Scope The highest-value gap on the brand, because the material field is the one part of the reference that is independently testable and therefore the one worth being able to read completely. The catalog currently records the common codes and would be able to check any reference against the watch with a full mapping.
Production of the 1990s JB300
Was a JB300 actually produced in the 1990s as claimed, in what quantity, and with which caliber?
Scope The reference is seeded as a placeholder with a claimed ETA 2824 and carries no movement fitment, because the catalog cannot establish that the watch existed as described. That is the correct treatment and it should stay until evidence arrives: a reference recorded as a placeholder is visibly incomplete, where one filled in from the brand's account would look researched.
Universal Genève case-reference to caliber and dial mapping
Which case references correspond to which calibers, dial executions and production years across the Polerouter and Compax families, and what do the suffixes after the slash denote?
Scope The central gap on the brand and the reason several records here are named rather than numeric. Universal Genève used a large number of case references and there is no published concordance; without one, internal consistency — the only test available in the absence of an archive — can only be applied loosely. Auction archives are the practical route to assembling it, reference by reference, from catalogued lots with photographs of both case interior and movement.
Photographic reference for original Nina Rindt dial printing
At magnification, how does original 885103 dial printing differ from the reproduction dials currently in circulation, in register-ring definition, wordmark proportion and the placement of Swiss?
Scope The highest-value piece of missing evidence in this entire expansion. The reference is worth tens of thousands, the value sits in the dial, the fraud is well capitalised, and the catalog currently describes the difference in prose. Prose is a weak instrument for a judgement made by eye at magnification. Well-provenanced auction lots supply one side of the comparison and the reproduction market supplies the other.
Period dial printing reference for vintage Tissot
What did genuine Tissot dial printing look like, decade by decade, in the placement and letterforms of the wordmark, Antimagnétique and Swiss Made?
Scope Directly actionable and directly valuable, because the redial is the brand's characteristic vintage defect and the check for it is comparative. The catalog currently describes what a redial looks like in words; a decade-by-decade photographic reference would let an examiner compare rather than recall. Documented auction lots with strong provenance are the practical source.
Vintage Rado reference conventions and caliber assignments
What reference numbering did Rado use before the modern R-prefixed format, and which ébauches were fitted to the DiaStar, Captain Cook and Golden Horse lines through the 1960s and 1970s?
Scope The reason the period DiaStar and Captain Cook are recorded here as named references rather than numeric ones. Rado bought movements in during this era and the assignments are not published; the manufacturer's own archive, or period service documentation, would settle both questions at once.
Vintage Certina caliber assignments, including the Chronolympic
Which calibers did Certina fit to its vintage lines, and specifically which chronograph caliber belongs in a DS Chronolympic of a given year?
Scope Recorded as unverified on the reference itself rather than guessed at. Certina used bought-in chronograph calibers of the period and the assignment is not established in public sources; period service documentation or a run of well-documented auction lots would settle it.
Vintage Mido reference numbering and caliber assignments
What reference conventions did Mido use before the modern M-prefixed format, and which calibers were fitted to the Multifort, Commander and Ocean Star lines by period?
Scope The reason the vintage records here are named families rather than references. The Multifort in particular has run since 1934 under one name across quite different watches, and without a period map the model name conveys very little about what an examiner should expect to find.
Which Commander references are genuinely monocoque
Across the Commander's production, which references use the single-piece case and which use conventional cased construction under the same collection name?
Scope Directly consequential, because the catalog recommends the absence of a caseback as the fastest check on the model — and a check phrased that strongly must not be applied to a Commander reference that was never monocoque. Until the mapping exists, the check should be used to confirm a monocoque rather than to condemn a watch that has a back.
Which Certina models and periods carried genuine DS construction
Across Certina's production, which model lines and which years were built to the full DS specification, and when did the specification itself change?
Scope The catalog treats the turtle as a claim to be checked against the watch's construction, which requires knowing what the construction should be for a given model and year. DS was applied across the range and over decades, and the specification will not have been static; without the mapping, an examiner can establish that a shock mount is present but not that it is the right one.
Photographic reference for genuine Hermès strap construction
At magnification, what distinguishes genuine Hermès watch-strap stitching, edge finishing and underside markings from the counterfeit straps currently in circulation?
Scope The highest-value gap on the brand, because the catalog nominates the strap as primary evidence and then describes it in prose. Leather quality is a judgement made by eye and hand, and a comparative photographic reference — stitch pitch, edge section, the underside stamps — would convert a description into something an examiner can hold a strap against.
Franck Muller reference structure and case-size coding
How is a Franck Muller reference constructed, and how do the case-size and complication designations encode into it?
Scope The reason the Cintrée Curvex is recorded here at case-family level rather than reference by reference. The brand's range is very wide, turns over quickly, and its own site retains only current production — so the reference structure is the practical route to identifying a secondary-market watch, and the catalog does not yet hold it. Auction archives are the assembling source.
Photographic profile reference for genuine Cintrée Curvex curvature
What does the compound curvature of a genuine Cintrée Curvex look like in profile, across the different case sizes, and how does it compare against the single-plane counterfeits?
Scope The catalog nominates the profile view as the brand's primary check and then describes it in prose, which is weak for a judgement made by eye. A side-by-side profile comparison across case sizes would convert the strongest check on this brand from an instruction into a reference. Both sides are readily obtainable.
Yema period reference conventions and caliber assignments
Did Yema assign reference numbers to its 1960s and 1970s production, and which calibers were fitted to the Superman, Rallygraf, Yachtingraf and Spationaute lines?
Scope The reason every vintage record here is a named reference. Yema's period output was substantial and much of the documentation is French-language and dispersed; the Besançon municipal and industrial archives are the obvious route, and would settle the reference and caliber questions together.
French military issue markings on Yema watches
What issue markings did the French armed forces apply to Yema watches, which units and contracts do they correspond to, and over what periods?
Scope Issue markings command a substantial premium and sit on a removable component, which is the combination that attracts fraud. Without a documented list of what genuine markings look like and which contracts they correspond to, an examiner can note that a caseback is marked but cannot assess whether the marking is right. French defence procurement records would establish it.
Which brands used which Von Büren case references, and when
Which manufacturers bought Von Büren dive cases, which case references did each use, and over what period?
Scope The highest-value gap here, and its value extends well beyond Squale: a concordance of which case went to which brand in which years would let an examiner confirm that a given case is period-correct for the dial it carries, rather than merely knowing that shared cases exist. It would improve the Blancpain, Doxa and Heuer records as much as this one.
Photographic reference for hand versus machine finishing at magnification
At magnification, what do hand-bevelled internal angles and black-polished surfaces look like beside their machine-finished equivalents?
Scope Valuable well beyond this brand. The catalog uses the internal-angle and black-polish tests for Montblanc's Villeret calibers, Laurent Ferrier, De Bethune and here, and describes them in prose throughout. A single comparative photographic reference would serve all of them — and finishing is precisely the kind of judgement that words convey poorly and a side-by-side image conveys instantly.
Omega 861 to 1861 changeover year
In which year did Omega replace the calibre 861 with the rhodium-plated 1861 in Speedmaster Professional production?
Best current answer
Most likely 1996 or 1997. The catalog records the movement span as ending in 1996 and flags the transition as disputed rather than asserting either year.
Conflicting claims
Fratello's 145.022 buying guide places the change in 1996; other specialist accounts, including dealer catalogue descriptions, give 1997. No manufacturer statement establishing the date has been located. The transition was in any case gradual, since Omega continued fitting 861 parts from stock.
Scope Affects the production windows on every ReferenceMovementFit for the 145.022 and its successors.
Movement supply to vintage Cartier by house and period
Which movement makers supplied which Cartier houses in which periods, and can a vintage Cartier's movement be checked against an expected supplier rather than merely described?
Best current answer
That the movement is a supplier's is established and is recorded. Which supplier, for which house, in which period, is not.
Scope The highest-value gap on the brand. Because a vintage Cartier's movement is normally a supplier's, an examiner currently has no expected-caliber list to check against — which means the movement, the most informative part of most watches, is close to uninformative here. Resolving it would need supplier documentation from Jaeger, LeCoultre and European Watch & Clock Co. alongside Cartier's own archive.
A documentable standard for correct Royal Oak case finishing
Can the finishing characteristics that distinguish a factory Royal Oak case and bracelet be described precisely enough to be applied by an examiner who has not handled many, and is there any manufacturer specification behind them?
Best current answer
The component records describe the features to examine — transition crispness, chamfer evenness, screw alignment, bracelet articulation — without asserting a threshold. That is deliberate: a stated threshold nobody can source would read as a specification.
Scope The highest-value gap on the brand, because finishing is the primary authentication signal and the catalog can currently only say what to look at. Audemars Piguet publishes no finishing specification, so the knowledge is tacit and held by people who handle the watches — which makes it hard to transfer and impossible to cite.
Case makers supplying Patek Philippe, by period
Which Geneva case makers supplied Patek in which periods, and can a case-maker poinçon be checked against an expected set for a given reference and date rather than merely identified?
Best current answer
That the cases were made outside Patek is established. Which workshop supplied which reference, and when, rests on attributions read from poinçons against hallmark registers.
Scope The marking record states that a non-Patek maker's mark is normal and expected, which prevents the common false finding. What it cannot yet support is the useful positive check: whether the mark present is one that should be present. Resolving it needs hallmark-register research tied to Patek production dates rather than anything Patek publishes.
Seiko 6105A and 6105B: what actually differs
What is the substantive difference between the 6105A and 6105B executions — hacking, date quickset, or a purely constructional revision — and exactly when did production change over?
Best current answer
The 6105A is associated with the symmetric-cased 6105-8000 and the 6105B with the asymmetric -8110. The catalog records that association and does not assert what the letters denote functionally.
Conflicting claims
Collector sources describe the difference variously as a hacking capability, a date-setting change and a bridge revision, without agreement and without citing a Seiko technical guide. A Seiko technical guide for the 6105 family would settle it.
Scope Affects the movement fitments on 6105-8000 and 6105-8110 and any authentication note that turns on which execution belongs in which case.
Seiko reference photography for visual comparison
Can properly licensed reference photography be obtained for the Seiko dial, bezel, caseback, movement and lume comparisons the counterfeit indicators describe?
Best current answer
No reference imagery is held. Several counterfeit indicators in the Seiko records instruct an examiner to compare print weight, marker seating and lume tone 'against a documented original' — an instruction the catalog cannot currently support, since it holds no such image.
Scope The image architecture exists on WatchReference. What is missing is legally usable photography: owned, manufacturer-supplied or licensed. Scraping marketplace images is not an option.
Authentication method for military issue engravings
Is there a reproducible method — cutting characteristics, letterform, tooling marks — by which a genuine service-applied engraving can be distinguished from a modern addition, and can any issuing service's records be consulted directly?
Best current answer
No reproducible method is recorded. The catalog's position is that an issue claim is unverified until the engraving's execution, the watch's configuration and an independent documentary chain all agree — which is a procedure, not a test.
Scope The highest-consequence open question on the brand: issue provenance can multiply a watch's value several times, the engraving sits on an accessible external surface, and the catalog currently holds the whole class at `unverified`. Any advance here changes real outcomes for owners and buyers.
Preserving the record of discontinued references
Which TSIKOLIA references have been discontinued and removed from the manufacturer's store, and what did they carry?
Scope The highest-priority gap on this brand, and one specific to micro-brands. A small company removes a discontinued line from its store without trace, and there is no auction scholarship, collector literature or archive to fall back on — so a reference not captured before it disappears may become unrecoverable. The 42mm Seven is already in that position and is recorded here only partially. This argues for periodically re-reading the store and capturing what is there, which is a different kind of research task from anything else in this knowledge layer.
Vintage Tissot caliber-to-reference mapping
Which Tissot calibers were fitted to which models and case references across the mid-twentieth century, and what are the production spans of the principal vintage caliber families?
Scope The largest gap on the brand and the reason several vintage records here are recorded as named families rather than references. Tissot made watches in very large numbers for a century and the public caliber documentation is thin relative to that output — thinner than for Omega, with which it shared an owner. Tissot's own archive in Le Locle would settle it; auction-house condition reports and period service documentation would narrow it.
Whether any Universal Genève production records survive anywhere
Did any part of the Universal Genève production archive survive the Bulova and Stelux ownerships, and did the 2023 acquisition of the intellectual property include access to records capable of confirming an individual vintage watch?
Scope Worth settling definitively rather than by assumption, because the answer changes what an authentication of this brand can claim. The catalog currently states that no archive is available for individual confirmation, which reflects the position as understood — but a negative is hard to establish, and the new ownership is the obvious party to ask. If any records do survive, this brand moves from the hardest in the expansion to a considerably easier one.
Independent evidence for the military association
Is there any evidence independent of the brand — procurement records, dated photographs, issued examples with a chain of custody — for the claimed association between the original Jacques Bianchi watches and French military divers?
Best current answer
The claim originates with the modern company and is repeated in press coverage that appears to derive from the company's own material. That is one source reported twice, not two sources agreeing.
Scope The defining open question on the brand, and the one the catalog's records already reflect: the association is recorded as an unverified brand claim on the reference records and is not repeated as fact anywhere. It may well be true. Resolving it needs a source that is not the company, and none has been located.
Period Zodiac reference conventions and caliber assignments
What reference numbering did independent-era Zodiac use, and which calibers were fitted to the Sea Wolf and Astrographic through the 1950s and 1960s?
Scope The reason the period records here are named references. It also matters for the generational check: knowing which calibers period watches DID contain would let an examiner confirm a vintage attribution positively, rather than only ruling out modern production by the absence of an STP caliber.
SKX J and K suffixes: what they actually establish
Do the SKX J and K designations record the country of assembly, or only the origin marking required by the destination market?
Best current answer
The suffixes reliably indicate the destination market and correspond to documented dial-text and caseback differences. They are recorded on that basis and no country of manufacture is asserted from them.
Conflicting claims
Long-running disagreement in the Seiko community. One position holds that J watches were assembled in Japan and K watches elsewhere; another that all movements came from the same facility and the letters reflect only import origin-marking requirements. No manufacturer statement resolving it has been located, and the question is complicated by assembly and movement production potentially having different answers.
Scope Affects the SKX dial component records, the 'Japan A' caseback marking, and any provenance statement about country of origin on an SKX.
Rolex and Cortébert movement supply to pre-1993 Panerai
Which Rolex and Cortébert calibers were supplied for which Panerai instruments, in what quantities, and over what periods?
Scope The supply relationship is established in outline and not in detail. Even a partial mapping would help, since a movement inconsistent with any documented supply is a finding an examiner could act on — one of the few negative checks available on these watches.
Rolex 1575 jewel count
Does the Rolex calibre 1575 carry 25 or 26 jewels, and did the count change during production?
Best current answer
26 jewels, which is the figure given by the majority of caliber databases and recorded on the movement record.
Conflicting claims
At least one caliber database lists 25. It is not established whether this is an error, a different execution, or a change during the caliber's sixteen-year production. The parallel case of the Omega 861 — where the jewel count genuinely changed mid-production — means the discrepancy cannot be dismissed as a transcription error.
Rolex scrambled serials — 2009 or mid-2010
When exactly did Rolex begin issuing randomised (scrambled) serial numbers?
Best current answer
Around 2010. The scheme record uses 2010 as its start year and states the uncertainty in its description.
Conflicting claims
One account has Rolex beginning to discontinue sequential numbering in 2009; another places the start of scrambling around the middle of 2010. Both are dealer sources. The practical consequence is nil for dating — randomised serials do not decode either way — but it matters for deciding whether a given serial should be readable at all.
Gay Frères attribution on Omega bracelets
Which Omega bracelet references were supplied by Gay Frères, and over what period does the supplier mark appear?
Best current answer
Gay Frères supplied bracelets to Omega during the relevant period and its mark appears on the clasp underside of many examples. The precise reference-by-reference and year-by-year mapping is not established, so the component record carries the attribution as period-dependent rather than as fact.
Conflicting claims
Collector sources agree on the supplier relationship but not on which references and years carry the mark. No Omega parts documentation covering supplier attribution has been located.
62MAS 6217-8000 production window
Over exactly which months of 1965 was the small-crown 6217-8000 produced?
Best current answer
Roughly two to three months in the first half of 1965. The catalog records the production year as 1965 at both ends rather than asserting specific months.
Conflicting claims
Collector guides give April to June 1965 and, separately, April to May 1965. The distinction matters more here than on most references, because the window is short enough that the caseback month code becomes a real cross-check — and a wrong month boundary would turn a correct watch into an anomaly.
Scope Would sharpen the serial-dating check that this reference's short production window makes unusually informative.
Seiko 7549 quartz caliber
What are the architecture, production span and service characteristics of the 7549 caliber used in the first quartz Tuna?
Best current answer
Not yet researched. The 7549-7009 reference record names the caliber from the case number; no movement record has been created and no movement fitment is asserted, deliberately, rather than pairing the reference with the modern 7C46 to avoid an empty cell.
Scope Blocks a movement fitment on 7549-7009 and on the other 7549-cased professional divers.
Seven-character Seiko serial format
Is the seven-character caseback serial a documented Seiko format, and does it follow the same year and month rule with a five-digit unit number?
Best current answer
The serial decoder parses seven-character codes on the six-character rule and holds the result below 'probable' regardless of how well the candidate decade fits, so a seven-character serial can never drive a confident dating conclusion.
Conflicting claims
Seven-character serials are encountered on Seiko casebacks and are generally read on the same rule. No Seiko documentation establishing the format has been located, and it is not clear whether it is a distinct scheme, an era variation, or a misreading of a worn six-character stamp.
Scope Affects the confidence ceiling in lib/catalog/seikoSerial.ts.
6139-600x Proof to Resist transition date by market
In which month did rest-of-world 6139-600x dials change from 'Water 70m Proof' to 'Water 70m Resist', and were North American dials genuinely 'Resist' from the outset?
Best current answer
Around mid-1970 for rest-of-world dials, with North American -6005 and -6009 examples reported as 'Resist' from 1969. Recorded as a production change at 'probable' confidence with the market qualification attached.
Conflicting claims
Dates in circulation come from observed watches rather than from Seiko documentation, and observed-watch dating is itself subject to the decade ambiguity in the serial. The reasoning is close to circular and should be treated with corresponding care.
Scope The dial/caseback wording agreement check on the 6139 family depends on this transition being placed correctly.
Seiko dial-code supplier letters
Do the trailing letters on vintage Seiko dial codes reliably identify the dial supplier, and does the mapping hold across calibers and decades?
Best current answer
Unresolved. The dial-code scheme is recorded at unverified confidence with the supplier-letter attribution described as collector research rather than as established.
Conflicting claims
Forum research proposes specific letter-to-factory mappings and pairs them with typographic differences in the 'JAPAN' text. The correlations are reported consistently enough to be worth investigating and are not supported by any Seiko document that has been located. Encoding them as facts would put an unsourceable rule into the authentication path.
Scope Would materially strengthen dial-originality assessment on 1960s and 1970s references if it could be established.
Transition from printed to ceramic wave dials on the Diver 300M
Was the change from a printed wave dial to a laser-engraved ceramic dial a clean cutover at the 2018 reference change, or did the two overlap in production or in service supply?
Scope The fitment records treat the change as aligning with the reference change, which is how it is catalogued rather than how it is proven. Service supply in particular is likely to have blurred it, and a ceramic dial in an earlier watch is currently classified as a service replacement on that reasoning rather than on evidence.
Which Rolex case and bracelet references were supplied to Tudor, by period
Which specific Rolex case, crown, crystal and bracelet references were used on which Tudor references, and when did each change?
Scope The catalog records that vintage Tudor cases are Rolex-supplied but assigns no part references, because doing so would require a parts catalogue covering the supply relationship. Until then a Tudor's case parts can be described but not verified against a list.
Meaning of the CK prefix on vintage Omega case references
What do the two-letter prefixes on pre-1960s Omega references — CK most prominently — actually designate? ST is consistently associated with stainless-steel cases in dealer and service material, but no manufacturer statement establishing the CK series has been located.
Best current answer
The prefix is a real and consistent part of the numbering rather than a dealer convention, and ST denotes a steel case. Beyond that the catalog states nothing.
Scope Affects how the catalog describes every prefixed reference, including CK2915, CK2998 and CK2913. Resolving it would let the reference-numbering record say what the prefix means rather than noting that it exists.
Field semantics of the Omega Product Identity Code
What do the five groups of the fourteen-digit PIC other than the case-diameter group encode, and is the mapping stable across collections?
Conflicting claims
Several community tables assign different meanings to the leading three-digit group — collection versus collection-plus-metal — and none cites an Omega document.
Scope Community decompositions circulate and agree on the case-size field while diverging elsewhere. Until a manufacturer source is located the catalog documents only the field it can independently verify with a caliper.
Production window of the Speedmaster 'dot over 90' bezel
Over what period was the dot-over-90 tachymeter insert supplied, and did supply overlap with the later printing rather than replacing it cleanly?
Scope The variation is well catalogued and its dating is not. Because bezels are among the most frequently replaced parts on a Speedmaster, a firm window would raise this from a dating aid on a loose bezel to a usable cross-check on a complete watch.
Overlap between the ETA and manufacture generations
Did any Tudor reference ship with both an ETA and an MT56xx caliber, and were ETA-equipped watches serviced with manufacture movements?
Scope The movement fitments in this bundle treat the boundary as clean, with each reference assigned one caliber. If the generations overlapped in production or in service supply, an ETA in a reference recorded as manufacture would be a service finding rather than the mismatch the current data implies.
Field semantics of the modern Cartier reference
Beyond the metal grouping visible in the leading letters, what do the remaining characters of an eight-character Cartier reference encode, and is the scheme stable across collections?
Scope The catalog documents only the metal grouping, which is checkable against the case in hand. The earlier W-plus-digits form is a separate convention and is not reconstructed either.
Which OP designations correspond to which ébauche bases
Which ETA and Unitas bases underlie each of Panerai's OP-series designations, and did any OP number cover more than one base over its life?
Scope OP numbers are Panerai's internal designations for finished ébauches rather than distinct architectures, and several sit on the same base. Without a mapping, an examiner cannot state what a given OP designation should look like — which is the question that matters, since the expected appearance follows from the base and not from the designation.
Which quartz calibers Cartier fits to the Tank Must and Santos-Dumont
Which caliber numbers correspond to the quartz and photovoltaic movements in the current Tank Must and Santos-Dumont references?
Scope Several current Cartier references in this catalog record a movement type and no caliber, because Cartier names none in its consumer material. Numbers circulate in retailer listings and are not cited here. Until a manufacturer source is located the field stays empty rather than carrying a number nobody can trace.
Hallmark placement conventions by case maker and period
Where on a Cartier case did each case maker strike the French hallmarks, and does placement vary enough by period to be usable as a dating or consistency check?
Scope The marking records state that placement varies with the case maker and period without saying how. Since the hallmarks are the strongest evidence available on a vintage Cartier, knowing where to expect them would turn 'the mark is present' into 'the mark is present where this case maker struck it'.
Reading of the inner-caseback period stamp
Is the quarter-and-year reading of the stamp inside a vintage Rolex caseback supported by any manufacturer source, and how reliably does it correspond to the case serial?
Best current answer
The stamps exist and are consistent in form. The quarter-and-year interpretation is collector-reconstructed; the catalog records it as narrowing a period rather than dating a watch.
Scope Consequential on refinished watches, where the inner stamp may be the only original marking left legible. If the reading is sound it is a valuable cross-check against the serial; if it is reconstructed, it inherits the same weakness as the serial tables and cannot corroborate them, because both would rest on the same body of inference.
COMEX issue records
Do issue records survive for the COMEX Submariners and Sea-Dwellers, and can a claimed issue number be checked against anything outside the watch?
Scope Mirrors the Tudor military-engraving gap and carries the same consequence: an exterior engraving that multiplies a watch's value several times, with no register to check it against. The catalog holds COMEX claims at unverified absent an independent documentary chain, which is a procedure rather than a test.
Which Tapisserie scale belongs to which reference
Which of the Petite, Grande and Mega Tapisserie scales is correct for each Royal Oak reference and dial execution?
Scope The scale is model-specific rather than decorative, so a mapping would turn a descriptive observation into a check. Without one an examiner can confirm that a dial is machined and cannot confirm that it is the right dial for the reference.
Movement supply in the pre-2019 Royal Oak Chronograph
Which chronograph bases underlie the Royal Oak Chronograph calibers used before the integrated 4401, and how were they modified?
Scope Consequential because the model name spans both eras. An examiner expecting an in-house integrated chronograph in an earlier Royal Oak Chronograph will report a correct configuration as a finding. The catalog records the earlier calibers by number without stating their bases, because the bases are not documented in a source it can cite.
What an Audemars Piguet archive extract does and does not attest
Which fields does an Audemars Piguet archive extract carry, and does its coverage extend uniformly across the Royal Oak's production life?
Scope The bundle recommends obtaining an extract as the strongest available step on a questioned Royal Oak, which makes it worth being precise about what one actually establishes. Coverage by period is unknown to this catalog, and an extract that cannot be issued for a given watch is not evidence against it.
Whether any pre-1979 Breitling production records survive
Do production records from the Willy Breitling era survive anywhere, in the current company or elsewhere, that could date or configure a vintage Navitimer?
Scope Determines the ceiling on everything vintage in this bundle. If no records survive, vintage Breitling is permanently in the position vintage Tudor is in — datable only from the watch and from collector reconstruction — and the catalog should say so rather than leaving the question open indefinitely.
Meaning of the vintage Heuer reference suffix letters
What do the suffix letters on vintage Heuer references — the B in 1133B and its counterparts — actually designate, and is the convention consistent across the range?
Scope The suffixes distinguish genuinely different watches and are consistently used, so recording them matters. The catalog associates them with case or dial execution without asserting a mapping, which is as far as the sources support.
Which references carried which Calibre 5 base
Which outside movement bases has TAG Heuer sold under the Calibre 5 designation, and which reference carries which?
Scope Consequential because the designation is a label rather than a caliber identity. Without a mapping an examiner cannot state what should be inside a Calibre 5 watch, which means the movement — normally the most informative part — establishes very little on these references.
Dating the Spiromax balance-spring introduction within the 324 family
When did the silicon Spiromax balance spring enter production in the 324 family, and does the transition align with any reference change?
Scope The caliber record notes that a serviced watch may carry a later spring than it left with, which makes the spring useless as a dating input unless the original transition is known. With a date it would become a weak but real cross-check on a 5711; without one it establishes nothing either way.
Whether the reference-suffix conventions hold across all eras
Do the bracelet, metal and dial suffix conventions apply consistently across Patek's whole production history, or did the scheme change over time in ways that would mislead an examiner reading an older reference with modern expectations?
Scope The bundle presents the suffix system as a four-point consistency test, which is only sound if the conventions are stable. They appear consistent across the modern references in this catalog; the reference 96 predates the scheme entirely, and where the boundary falls is not established.
Reverso case generations and their dating
Can the Reverso's case generations — carrier construction, gadroon profile, case dimensions — be ordered and tied to production periods?
Scope The case is the model's defining component and carries most of its value, and the catalog can currently describe how to test its action without being able to place a given case in a generation. A generational mapping would turn a functional check into a dating one.
Establishing period engraving and enamel on a Reverso reverse face
Can factory or period decoration on a Reverso's reverse face be distinguished from later work, and does JLC's heritage department hold records of commissioned decoration?
Scope Decorated Reversos command premiums and the surface exists to be decorated, which makes later addition both easy and rational. The catalog classifies undocumented decoration as unknown rather than as either period or added — the honest position, and an unsatisfying one for anyone valuing a watch.
The two undecoded fields in the TW reference number
What do the leading digit of the colour group and the G that follows the case size actually encode?
Best current answer
Inferred correlations only, which the serial record states as inferences and declines to present as a decoding.
Scope The line prefix, case size and mother-of-pearl marker are established from the catalog's own records and are decoded. These two are not: the leading digit correlates with price and with case finish on the Ori but does not hold cleanly across the Seven sizes, and the G marks gem-setting on the 32mm while appearing on every 36mm and 40mm reference. Unusually among the gaps in this knowledge layer, this one is answerable by asking the manufacturer — the company is small, active and reachable, so this is a question rather than a research project.
Calibers in the 32mm Seven
Which movements are fitted to the four 32mm Seven references, for which the manufacturer publishes no caliber?
Scope Four of the catalog's fifty-six TSIKOLIA references carry no movement fitment because no caliber is published for them, and the crystal and water resistance are unpublished too. Answerable by asking the manufacturer, and worth doing: it is the only line in the brand where the catalog cannot say what is inside the watch.
Which outside calibers the Mark series used before 2018
Which bought-in movements did the Mark references carry before the 32xxx family, and which reference carried which?
Scope The Mark line ran on outside bases for decades, and the catalog currently holds only the in-house generation. Without the earlier assignments an examiner cannot say what should be inside a Mark XVI or XVII, and an outside caliber in one would look like a finding when it is the correct configuration.
Whether Hublot will confirm an individual watch
Does Hublot answer enquiries against a case or movement number, and will it confirm the material specification of a given watch?
Scope Particularly relevant on this brand because of the counterfeit volume and because the material claims are central to value. A manufacturer confirmation of specification would settle questions that physical testing can only narrow.
Dating Vostok production without a serial scheme
What combination of dial text, caliber generation, case construction and logo can place a Vostok in a production period, and how narrow a window can it support?
Scope There is no serial register and production ran to millions of units, so dating rests entirely on inference from the parts — which is complicated by the parts being interchangeable. The catalog currently records that a Vostok usually cannot be dated closely, which is honest and unsatisfying.
Whether the factory recorded any configuration as canonical
Did the Chistopol factory document standard configurations for its case references, or was the pairing of case, dial and movement genuinely free from the outset?
Scope Determines whether `factory` is ever the right classification for a Vostok configuration or whether `period` is always the most that can be said. The bundle currently assumes the latter for dials and the former for calibers, which is a working position rather than a documented one.
What the modern Lange archive will confirm
Will Lange answer an enquiry against a movement number, and which fields does it provide?
Scope Production began in the 1990s so the records are recent and complete, which suggests an enquiry would be answerable. The catalog does not assert it without establishing it, and the bundle therefore recommends the balance cock rather than the archive as the primary individuating evidence.
Which calibers the Classic Fusion and Big Bang carried by period
Which HUB designations correspond to which outside bases, and which reference carried which caliber over its production life?
Scope Consequential because a HUB number is a designation rather than a statement of origin, and an examiner expecting an in-house architecture behind one will report a correct watch as wrong. The catalog holds three calibers and their bases; the wider mapping is not established.
Which named American Hamilton models used which movement grades by year
For the named wristwatch models — Piping Rock, Boulton and their contemporaries — which movement grades were fitted in which production years?
Scope Needed to close the loop on the recommended examination order for these watches. The catalog's advice is to date the movement first and judge the dial against that date, which requires knowing which grade belongs in which year — currently recorded only as caliber families rather than year by year. Hamilton's own production records and period catalogs would establish it.
Photographic reference for period versus reproduction military dials
What do period GG-W-113 and MIL-W-46374 dials look like at magnification, compared against the reproduction dials currently sold for restoration?
Scope The catalog describes the difference in words — period pad printing spreads slightly, reproductions are too crisp, aged tritium does not glow — and words are weaker than a comparison photograph for a judgement made by eye. Reproduction dials are sold openly, so both sides of the comparison are obtainable.
Doxa period reference numbering
Did Doxa assign public reference numbers to the 1960s and 1970s SUB models, and if so how do they map to case, dial colour and caliber?
Scope The reason the period SUB records here are named rather than numeric. With colour functioning as part of the model identity, a reference scheme that encodes it would be particularly informative.
Whether original production was serialised
Were the early-1980s Jacques Bianchi watches given individual serial numbers, and if so where were they placed?
Scope Determines whether an original can be identified as an individual watch at all. For a small French production of the period, either answer is plausible, and the catalog records no serial scheme rather than assuming one exists.
Detecting composites of vintage and re-edition parts
Can a watch assembled from a mixture of 1982 and modern re-edition components be identified, given how closely the designs correspond?
Scope The re-editions are close enough to the originals that parts interchange, and the originals carry a premium. The catalog classifies a suspected composite as unknown pending examination of lume, printing and movement together, which is a procedure rather than a test.
Jewel count of the Hamilton H-50
Does the H-50 carry 17 jewels, as Hamilton's own specification and its ETA 2801-2 base imply, or 25 as other published specifications for the same reference state?
Conflicting claims
Hamilton's own product specification and several retailers state 17 jewels; other published specifications for reference H69439931 state 25. Both appear in current circulation.
Scope Small in itself and disproportionately consequential in use, because a jewel count is visible on the movement and an examiner will reasonably treat it as decisive. Until it is settled against a Hamilton technical document the catalog asserts no figure, and no finding should rest on one.
Reliable identification of the pivoting anchor on service dials
Do Rado service replacement dials carry the pivoting anchor in the same form as factory dials, and are there production periods or executions in which the anchor was fixed rather than pivoted?
Scope Matters because the catalog recommends the anchor as the first check on any Rado, and a check that strong needs its exceptions documented. If any genuine Rado dial carries a fixed anchor, an examiner relying on this test would condemn it. Nothing found so far suggests one does, but the absence of a documented exception is not the same as its absence.
Generation-by-generation T-Touch reference map
Which T-Touch references belong to which generation of the tactile platform, and what functions and power sources did each generation carry?
Scope The T-Touch is recorded at platform level because the generations differ substantially — in functions, in power source and in interface behaviour — and assessing one generation against another's expected behaviour would produce wrong answers. Tissot's own archive of discontinued references would close this; the live site holds only current production.
Whether the 1978 Seastar PRX was catalogued under numeric references
Did Tissot assign public reference numbers to the 1978 PRX, and if so what were they and how do they map to the case and dial executions?
Scope Recorded as a named reference because no reliable numeric identity is established, and the modern revival has made the original commercially interesting enough that listings now invent identifications for it. A period Tissot catalog would resolve this directly.
Pre-1950 Bulova symbol date codes
What symbol system did Bulova use to date casebacks before the letter-and-digit codes, and how does each symbol map to a year?
Scope The catalog records the letter system from around 1950 and notes that earlier production used symbols without decoding them. Pre-war Bulovas are numerous and the symbol tables exist in collector sources; recording them would extend usable dating back several decades.
Which Bulova references use the 262 kHz oscillator
Across current and recent production, which references carry high-frequency quartz and which carry standard 32,768 Hz movements?
Scope Matters because the sweeping seconds hand is only correct on the high-frequency references. On a standard quartz Bulova a sweep would be an anomaly, and without the reference-level mapping an examiner cannot tell which expectation applies — the same reference-specific problem the Rado material tests have.
How the 2026 recreations differ physically from the originals
In what specific, physically observable ways do the relaunched Polerouter and Compax recreations differ from the vintage watches they reproduce?
Scope A gap that will grow. Faithful modern recreations of valuable vintage watches enter the secondary market and are eventually offered, honestly or otherwise, as originals — the pattern already visible with the Rado Captain Cook reissue. Documenting the differences now, while the new watches are current and their specifications published, is far easier than reconstructing them in a decade.
Hermès watch reference structure and its decode
How is an Hermès watch reference constructed, and which fields encode model, case size, material and dial execution?
Scope The catalog records the Cape Cod, Heure H and Arceau at model level partly because the reference structure is not established. Given the counterfeit volume on this brand, being able to check that a quoted reference is even well-formed would have real practical value.
Which Montblanc pen authentication conventions apply to watches
Of the widely circulated Montblanc authentication methods — emblem geometry, serial formats, packaging and documentation conventions — which were developed for writing instruments and which genuinely apply to watches?
Scope A practical hazard, and the same one this catalog records for Hermès. The counterfeit apparatus and the corresponding authentication literature around Montblanc are overwhelmingly about pens, they are easy to find, and much of it does not transfer. The emblem geometry does; the serial conventions largely do not. Establishing the boundary would prevent a specific and likely error.
Aquadura service parts availability
Are cork sealing components still supplied for period Aquadura crowns, and what is the accepted service practice where they are not?
Scope Determines whether a substituted conventional crown on a period Mido should be read as a reasonable repair or as an avoidable loss of originality — a judgement the catalog currently records without being able to justify either way.
Physical differences between period DS divers and the Heritage reissues
In what observable respects do the modern Certina Heritage reissues differ from the 1960s DS dive watches they reproduce?
Scope The same problem this expansion records for Doxa and Rado: a faithful reissue, a period original worth substantially more, and no photographic separator. Both sides are obtainable — the reissues are current production and period examples appear at auction — so this is a documentable gap rather than an intractable one.
Which J12 executions use which ceramic and colour processes
Do the black, white and coloured J12 ceramics differ in composition or process in ways that affect their weight, hardness or thermal behaviour?
Scope The material tests this bundle leads with assume the ceramic behaves consistently across executions. That is very likely true and is not established, and coloured ceramics in particular involve different compositions. Worth confirming, because a test recommended this strongly should have its limits known.
Separating Hermès leather-goods authentication material from watch material
Which of the widely circulated Hermès authentication systems — blindstamps, workshop marks, date letters — apply to watches and watch straps, and which are specific to handbags and other leather goods?
Scope A practical hazard rather than a historical question. The volume of Hermès handbag authentication material online vastly exceeds the watch material, it is easily found, and much of it does not transfer — an examiner applying a handbag date-stamp system to a watch will reach a confident and meaningless conclusion. Establishing what genuinely applies to watches would prevent a specific and likely error.
The Villeret Minerva caliber family and its members
Which calibers does Montblanc currently make at Villeret, how do they differ from each other, and how does each relate to the historical Minerva calibers they descend from?
Scope The catalog holds two Villeret calibers and does not assert the differences between them, which is honest but leaves an examiner able to recognise a Minerva movement without being able to say which one. Given the values involved, being able to confirm that the correct Villeret caliber is present — rather than merely a Villeret caliber — would be worth having.
Heart Beat aperture positions and movement orientations by caliber
Which calibers place the balance at which dial position, and are there Heart Beat references whose aperture shows something other than the balance?
Scope The catalog recommends the aperture as a check that works from a photograph, which is a strong claim and needs its exceptions known. If any genuine Heart Beat reference shows a mainspring barrel or another component rather than the balance, an examiner applying the rule strictly would condemn it.
Vintage Baume & Mercier reference conventions
What reference numbering did Baume & Mercier use before the MOA format, and how do the 1973 Riviera and mid-century Hampton executions map onto it?
Scope The reason the period records here are named rather than numeric. Lower priority than the equivalent gaps on the more valuable vintage brands in this expansion, simply because the money at stake is smaller — but the 2021 Riviera revival has begun to change that for the 1973 watch.
Baume Frères Kew Observatory award records
Which Baume Frères movements were submitted to Kew, in which years, with what results, and are the certificates traceable to individual watches?
Scope Worth pursuing because observatory records are institutional and survive, which makes this one of the few historical brand claims in the expansion that could be moved from `probable` to genuinely documented. It would also establish the useful distinction between watches that were actually certified and the wider production the certification is now used to endorse.
Caliber assignments across vintage Baume & Mercier
Which movements were fitted to Baume & Mercier watches through the mid-twentieth century, and to the original Riviera in particular?
Scope The catalog holds only the modern Baumatic. The original Riviera spanned the quartz crisis in both mechanical and quartz form, so a period example could correctly contain either — and without the mapping an examiner cannot tell a correct quartz Riviera from a movement swap.
Photographic reference for fumé gradient quality
How does a genuine Moser fumé gradient behave under rotation and varied lighting, compared with the copies now in circulation?
Scope An unusual case where still photography is inadequate to the gap: the check depends on how the gradient behaves as light moves across it, so the reference material needed is video rather than images. Worth noting because it also implies the right instruction to a remote seller — ask for a rotating video, not more photographs.
Spationaute technical specification and production quantity
What caliber, dimensions and specification did the Spationaute carry, how many were produced, and how does the flown example differ from series production?
Scope The mission and date are well documented and the watch is not. Establishing whether the flown example differed from series production would also sharpen the flown-watch-versus-flown-model distinction the catalog relies on here — if the mission watch was specially prepared, that is itself a check on any claim attaching to a production example.
Moser HMC caliber family and its members
Which HMC calibers does Moser produce, what are their specifications, and which use the modular escapement and the in-house hairspring?
Scope The catalog holds one caliber and the family is considerably larger. Since the movement carries most of the identification on the Concept watches, knowing which caliber belongs in which reference — and which structural features to expect — is more consequential here than it would be on a brand whose dials identify themselves.
RW1212 technical specification
What are the RW1212's dimensions, frequency, jewel count, power reserve and construction, and what is its relationship if any to an outside base?
Scope The catalog records the caliber's existence and its useful property — visible from both sides — without asserting its specification, which is not established here. Since the recommended check is to compare the visible architecture against the published caliber, having the published caliber recorded would make that check considerably more usable.
Which Raymond Weil references use which outside calibers
Across the Freelancer, Maestro and Tango collections, which Sellita, ETA and quartz movements are fitted to which references?
Scope Needed so that an outside movement can be confirmed as the CORRECT outside movement rather than merely an unsurprising one. The catalog currently records that most of the range uses bought-in calibers, which prevents a false finding but does not support a positive one.
Squale reference-to-caliber mapping
Which Swiss calibers has Squale fitted to which of its own references, historically and currently?
Scope The catalog records only that Squale uses outside movements, which prevents a false finding but supports no positive one. Since the brand's cases are its identity, the movement is where a rebuilt or mismatched example would show, and knowing what belongs there would make that check possible.
Gearing behind the spherical moonphase accuracy claim
What tooth counts drive the spherical moonphase, and do they support the quoted accuracy of roughly a day's drift over a millennium?
Scope The same gap the catalog records for the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon, and answerable the same way: the accuracy follows arithmetically from the gearing, and the gearing is in principle countable. Recording it would convert a manufacturer's figure into a verified specification.
Astrographic mystery-disc mechanism and service availability
How is the Astrographic's disc drive constructed, and are parts or specialist servicing available for period examples?
Scope Determines whether a hazed or wobbling period Astrographic is a repairable condition problem or a permanent one, which is the difference between a service note and a substantial valuation finding. The catalog currently records the symptom without being able to say which.
Tooth counts behind the Perpetual Moon accuracy claim
What gear ratio drives the Perpetual Moon's disc, and does it support the quoted accuracy?
Scope Unusual among the gaps in this expansion because it is answerable by arithmetic once the tooth count is known, and the tooth count is visible through the caseback. Recording it would turn a marketing figure into a verified specification — and would give an examiner a definite number to check against.
Expected wear behaviour of the satellite carousel
How does a satellite carousel behave as it wears, and what distinguishes a worn but genuine mechanism from an ungeared imitation?
Scope Matters because the catalog recommends observation as the test and a worn genuine mechanism can look hesitant. The distinguishing principle recorded here — a worn mechanism still tells the right time — is sound but coarse, and a fuller account of the wear modes would let an examiner separate condition from authenticity with more confidence.
Whether TAG Heuer's archive can confirm an individual vintage watch
Does TAG Heuer's heritage archive hold per-watch production records, and will it answer an enquiry against a case or movement number?
Scope Determines whether vintage Heuer sits with Omega and Patek, where an individual watch is checkable, or with Tudor and Breitling, where it is not. The catalog currently assumes the latter and would materially change its recommendations if the former turned out to be true.
Production quantities and reference production periods
How many of each reference were made, and over what period did each run? Which colourways were offered in which years?
Scope The structural weakness of the whole bundle and the reason the confidence badges look strange next to the movement records. A company this size keeps no archive and publishes no history, so the catalog holds precise specifications for watches whose production it cannot date. That combination — strong on the movement, thin on the watch — is the true shape of the evidence rather than a gap in the research.
Rolex 93150 to 93250 supply transition
When was the 93150 bracelet withdrawn in favour of the 93250 in Rolex's service supply, and were the two supplied concurrently?
Best current answer
Around 2011 for the withdrawal of the 93150 from service supply. Recorded on the fitment rows as a service window opening in 2011 rather than as a hard production boundary.
Conflicting claims
Dealer sources state the 93150 was replaced by the 93250 from January 2011. Other listings describe the 93250 with solid end links as standard on references produced well before that, which would imply either concurrent supply or that the two accounts are describing different things — production fitment versus service availability. Rolex does not publish parts catalogues, so no primary source is available.
Scope Bears on every 20 mm sports reference whose bracelet may have been replaced at service.
Pre-1960s Seiko case numbering
What conventions govern Seiko case and serial numbering before 1960, and where does the six-character date code actually begin?
Best current answer
The decoder refuses to read serials as the six-character scheme before 1960, so a pre-1960 watch produces candidate years starting at 1960 rather than a confident wrong answer. Plus9Time has published research into the earlier conventions that has not yet been worked into this catalog.
Scope Affects the Laurel, early Seikosha and pre-war references, none of which are yet in the catalog.
Whether Oystersteel differs from the 904L Rolex used previously
Is Oystersteel a distinct alloy from the 904L stainless steel Rolex used before 2018, or a naming change applied to the same material?
Scope Low priority because little turns on it for an examiner, but worth recording because listings routinely treat the naming change as a material upgrade and price accordingly. The catalog states that the naming changed and does not assert that the alloy did.
Field semantics of the modern Breitling reference
Beyond the metal association in the leading letter, what do the remaining characters of a modern Breitling reference encode?
Scope Low priority: the reference can already be checked against Breitling's own product page, which is what an examiner actually needs. Decoding it would add convenience rather than capability.
What distinguishes the 822 from the 822/2
What changed between the Reverso calibers 822 and 822/2, and does the distinction have any consequence an examiner can observe?
Scope Low priority because little turns on it: both are rectangular manual calibers correct for their references. Recorded so that the near-empty specification on the 822/2 reads as a known gap rather than as an oversight.
Founding year of the brand
Was TSIKOLIA founded in 2011 or 2015, and how does either date relate to the earlier UNIQ label under which the same designer worked?
Conflicting claims
Sources give both 2011 and 2015. The history also runs back through the UNIQ label, so the question may not have a single answer: the design practice, the UNIQ watch line and the TSIKOLIA marque are three things with three different start dates.
Scope The brand profile deliberately records no founding year rather than presenting a contested one as settled. Low priority for authentication — a founding year decides nothing about an individual watch — but worth resolving because the catalog currently shows an empty field where a reader expects a number, and the reason should be discoverable.
Field semantics of the Lange reference number
What exactly do the two groups of a Lange reference encode, and is the mapping stable across the collections?
Scope The catalog records that the leading group identifies the model family and the trailing group the case metal and dial execution, which is supported by the references it holds. Low priority: the reference can be checked against Lange's own documentation, which is what an examiner needs.
Full decode of the modern Hamilton SKU
Beyond the collection groupings, what do the remaining digits of an H-prefixed Hamilton SKU encode, and is the mapping stable across collections and generations?
Scope Lower priority than it looks, because the SKU carries no date information whatever it encodes and so cannot do the work the American serial scheme does. Worth having for completeness in matching a watch to its configuration.
Which Horological Machines have been copied, and how closely
Which MB&F designs have attracted homages or copies, and how do those differ from the originals?
Scope Low priority because the economics protect these watches — reproducing a sculptural case in tiny numbers is not worthwhile — but worth tracking, since what exists in the market is loose homage and an examiner meeting one should be able to place it rather than puzzle over it.
Closed & unresolvable
Rolex serial-to-year tables have no manufacturer basis
Is there any manufacturer-issued source for the Rolex serial-number-to-production-year mappings reproduced across the market?
Best current answer
No such source has been located and none is expected: Rolex has never published production records. Every table in circulation is reconstructed by dealers and collectors from watches with dated papers.
Conflicting claims
Published tables disagree at the year boundaries, sometimes by many months. They are nonetheless reproduced as though authoritative, including by tools that return a single production year for a serial. This gap is marked unresolvable rather than open: it is a permanent caveat on serial-based dating, not a task awaiting time.
Scope The reason no SerialRange rows are seeded for Rolex. Recording estimates as records is the specific failure this gap exists to prevent.
Whether pre-1993 Panerai can be authenticated from the watch at all
Is there any combination of physical evidence that can establish a pre-1993 Panerai as genuine in the absence of a documented chain of custody, or is provenance the only available route?
Best current answer
The catalog's position is that physical examination can rule a watch OUT and cannot rule one IN. Provenance is the only route to a positive finding, and an examiner without specialist experience of these specific watches should decline rather than reason from general principles.
Scope Marked unresolvable rather than open, and the distinction is deliberate. The archive that would settle it is a military one, partly lost, and the surviving population is small enough that the reference set an examiner would compare against is itself contaminated by accepted forgeries. This is a permanent caveat on every pre-1993 claim in the catalog, not a task waiting for someone with time.
Which Moser references are Concept executions
Across current and recent production, which references carry unbranded Concept dials and which carry conventional signed dials?
Best current answer
CONCEPT IS A NAMING SUFFIX, not a separate collection, and it appears across the range: Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept, Endeavour Small Seconds Concept, Endeavour Tourbillon Concept, Streamliner Tourbillon Concept, Streamliner Perpetual Moon Concept. Where the word Concept appears in the model designation, the dial is expected to carry no logo, no indices and no text; where it does not, conventional signed dials apply. So the check an examiner needs is available from the model name itself rather than from a reference list. The first Concept appeared around 2016 and the fumé dial has become so strongly identified with the brand that the watches remain recognisable without any marking at all — which is the point of the exercise and also the reason the dial's optical quality carries the identification.
Scope RESOLVED, and the answer needs no lookup table — which is why the gap was framed harder than it turned out to be. The model designation declares it. What remains is only the ordinary problem of getting an accurate model name from a seller, which is not a research question.
Resolving the helium escape valve priority claim
Was the helium escape valve on the 1969 Doxa SUB 300T Conquistador co-developed with Rolex, developed independently in parallel, or licensed — and which watch reached commercial availability first?
Best current answer
Both claims are true in different senses, which is why both brands can assert priority honestly. ROLEX was first to the patent and first to the valve: Swiss patent CH 492 246, filed 6 November 1967 and granted 15 June 1970, with the Sea-Dweller carrying a valve from 1967 — but supplied to commercial diving contractors such as COMEX rather than sold to the public. DOXA was first to COMMERCIAL AVAILABILITY, with the 1969 SUB 300T Conquistador being the first such watch a member of the public could buy. The originating idea came from neither: Robert A. Barth, a US Navy saturation diver from the SEALAB programme, brought the one-way-valve concept to Rolex, whose engineers developed it into the production fitting. A co-development arrangement with Doxa is widely reported and its precise terms remain debated. An authentication report should state the distinction rather than pick a winner.
Conflicting claims
Now reconciled rather than open. Doxa's literature claims first commercial availability (correct); Rolex's account rests on the patent and first fitting (also correct). The residual disagreement is over the terms of the co-development, not over the chronology.
Scope RESOLVED, and the resolution is that the two claims were never actually in conflict — they answer different questions. The apparent dispute came from both brands stating their own claim without its qualifier. What remains genuinely open is narrower and less consequential: the commercial terms of any Doxa-Rolex arrangement.
Complete list of physical differences introduced by the 2019 J12 redesign
Precisely which features changed between the pre- and post-2019 J12, and how can each generation be identified from a single feature?
Best current answer
Bezel notches went from 30 (pre-2019) to 40 (post-2019) — countable from a photograph and decisive on its own. Chanel reworked roughly 70 per cent of components: the bezel was thinned to widen the dial opening; the numerals were redrawn and became applied ceramic rather than printed; the hour and minute indexes and the Swiss Made line moved onto the slanted flange around the dial; the crown was redesigned; and the solid steel caseback became a sapphire display back exposing the Kenissi Calibre 12.1. The display back is itself a generational tell, and it is why the pre-2019 watch must be judged on its case rather than its movement.
Scope RESOLVED, and better than hoped: the single-feature identifier asked for exists and is a COUNT rather than a judgement, so it needs no comparison photograph. Recorded on both J12 references and as a variant. Remaining photographic work would be nice-to-have rather than necessary.
MIL-W-46374 revision-by-revision specification
For each lettered revision of MIL-W-46374, what case material, movement type, dial specification and lume material were required, and which contractors built to which revision?
Best current answer
First published 30 October 1964. REVISIONS: A (1968) — plastic cases by Westclox and Benrus 1970-76, metal by Hamilton. B (1975) — added the radiation symbol and H3 to the DIAL, 'Dispose Rad. Waste' to the CASEBACK, and a coating on the hands to preserve the tritium. C (1983) — Stocker & Yale admitted as a contractor. D (1986) — five variants including the higher-specification Type 1, a departure from the disposable plastic watches; Hamilton, Stocker & Yale, rarely Marathon/Gallet. E (1989) — drastic dial font changes and tritium PAINT replaced by tritium VIALS; plastic, by Stocker & Yale and Marathon. TYPES, which run orthogonally to revisions: Types 1 and 2 mechanical, Types 3, 4 and 5 quartz. Type 1 requires minimum 15 jewels and ±30 sec/day at 75°F; Type 2 has no movement requirement, ±60 sec/day, and is the characteristic plastic execution. The Rev B and Rev E changes are the useful ones for an examiner because both are visible: H3 and the trefoil cannot appear before 1975, and vials rather than painted lume indicate Rev E or later.
Scope RESOLVED, and it yielded more than asked: as well as the revision mapping, the Type axis turned out to govern the movement independently, so the two together determine what a watch should be. The marking changes at Rev B and Rev E are datable events, which converts the revision letter from a label into a cross-check. Remaining detail — exact contract numbers per revision — is a lower-value archival question.